Apparel Science

Stitch classes 300-400

Stitch classes are designated and identified by the first digit of a “3 digit numeral system”. Type of stitch within each class are designated and identified by 2nd and 3rd digit.

 

ISO# 301 (Lockstitch 1 and 2 needle )

Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch looks the same on the top as well as the bottom. ″.one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B). A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B).Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn

  

 

Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 2.5


ISO# 304 (Zig Zag):

Stitch is formed with a needle and bobbin thread that are set in the center of the seam and form a symmetrical zig zag pattern. Also used to identify bartacking and lockstitch buttonsewing  and buttonholing. To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed.This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B). A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B).
Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn. Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needle to bobbin thread.

Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 5.5

 

ISO# 401 (Chainstitch/ Twin Needle Chainstitch):

Stitch formed by 1 needle thread passing through the material and interlooped with 1 looper thread that is set on the underside of the seamone needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B). Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material being sewn.

 

 
Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 5.5


ISO# 404 (Zig-Zag Chainstitch):

The 404 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Chainstitch.Its formation is similar to the 401stitch. To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed. This type of stitch is formed with two threads:  one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B). Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material being sewn.

Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 7

 

ISO# 406 (Bottom Coverstitch):

Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Two needle threads (A & A1) and one looper thread (B).Loops of the needle threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn.

Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 15.5


 

ISO# 407 (Bottom Coverstitch)  

Stitch formed by 3 needle threads passing through the material and interlacing with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Three needle threads (A, A1 & A2) and one  looper thread (B). Loops of the needle threads (A, A1 & A2) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn.

 

Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20

 

ISO# 408  

This type of stitch is formed using five threads; two needle threads (A & A1), two looper threads (B & B1) and one Top covering thread (C). This stitch is two rows of 401 two thread chainstitch with a top covering thread laid on the upper surface of the material being sewn.
Loops of the threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of threads (B & B1). The top covering thread (C) is laid between and around the needle threads on the surface of
the material The interloopings of the neeedle and looper threads are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material being sewn.

Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 17

 


References:-. Coats, amefird.com and other web articles 
  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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