Apparel Science


Needle Number System

The size of a needle is generally represented in one of two ways (although there are others). One method is by a number metric (Nm). This represents the diameter of the needle blade in hundredths of a millimetre measured just above the scarf but not at any reinforced part of the blade. For example, a Nm 110 needle is 1.1 millimetre in diameter, while a Nm 50 needle is half a millimetre in diameter.

The thickness of the blade on the right is 1.1mm wide which is shown in Nm as 110.

The alternative standard needle sizing method is the Singer/Asia numbering system sometimes referred to as the American system that uses a number that represents a size.

Below are the details of the needle number systems generally used by the needle manufacturers.  

 

European Number System   

 

This number system indicates the needle shaft’s metric diameter when measured just above the eye. This number sometimes begins with "NM" for "number metric"; 1 NM is equal to a hundredth of a millimeter. The smallest size is 60, which indicates a needle with a diameter of 0.6 millimeters. To find the diameter of larger needles on the European scale, multiply the needle number by 0.01. For example, a size 90 needle is 0.9 millimeters and a size 120 needle is 1.2 millimeters. If you know a needle's diameter, you can easily find its European number by multiplying the diameter by 100.

 

American Number System.

 

American needle system isn't based directly on size, it does correspond with the European system. To convert an American needle number below 19 to its European counterpart, subtract 8 from the American needle number, multiply the result by 5 and add that result to 60. For example, if you have a Size 12 needle, 12 - 8 = 4, 4 * 5 = 20 and 20 + 60 = 80. Therefore, if you have an American size 12 machine needle, it's size 80 on the European scale, which means it's 0.8 millimeters in diameter. Size 19 needles break this pattern; however, this means that you only need to memorize the 120/19 needle correspondence.

 

130/705 H needle system

 

This system is the standard for most consumer sewing-machine models. This system consists of the European number and its American equivalent separated by a slash. In the formal 130/705 H system, the European number always comes first: 120/19. However, some manufacturers put the American number first: 19/120. The name 130/705 H designates the general type of machine needle: "130" indicates the shank length, "705" means the shank is flat and "H" is an abbreviation for "Hohlkehle," which is a German word meaning "with scarf."


 

 

Below shows these Nm and Singer comparisons along with a number of other size references.

 

 

Comparison of Equivalent Needle Sizes

 

Singer

Metric (Nm)

Union Special

Lewis

Merrow

W&G New No.

459R

292 Bonis

3

35

-

-

-

-

22

-

4

40

-

-

-

-

21

22

5

45

-

-

-

-

20

21

6

50

-

-

-

-

19

20

7

55

22

-

0

22

18

18

8

60

-

2

0

24

17

16

9

65

25

-

0

25

16

14

10

70

27

2.5

1

27

15

13

11

75

029/030

-

-

30

14

12

12

80

32

3

2

32

13

11

13

85

34

-

-

-

-

10

14

90

36

3.5

3

36

12

9

15

95

38

-

-

-

-

-

16

100

40

4

4

40

11

7

17

105

42

-

-

-

-

-

18

110

44

4.5

5

44

10

6

19

120

047/048

5

6

48

9

4

20

125

49

-

-

49

-

-

21

130

-

-

7

52

8

3

22

140

54

5.5

-

-

7

2

22.5

150

60

6

8

-

6

1

23

160

-

-

-

-

-

0

23.5

170

67

-

9

-

-

-

24

180

78

7

-

-

-

-

25

200

079/080

-

10

-

-

-

26

230

90

-

-

-

-

-

27

250

100

-

-

-

-

-

28

280

110

-

-

-

-

-

29

300

120

-

-

-

-

-

30

330

-

-

-

-

-

-

31

350

140

-

-

-

-

-

32

380

-

-

-

-

-

-

32.5

400

156

-

-

-

-

-

 

 

Ref :- Coats industrial , schmitz , beisselneedles etc.

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